The Finishing Process
Kitchen & Baby Products: I use the same finishing process for spoons and cutting boards as I do for rattles and anything that might go in a child's mouth. The process begins with sanding and raising the grain with water until the desired smoothness is reached. I then apply The Real Milk Paint's Half and Half, which is an all-natural and food-safe blend of pure Tung Oil and citrus extract. This creates a beautiful, durable and water repellent finish. Before delivering my products, I lightly sand with a high-grit sandpaper and apply a final conditioning coat of Walrus Oil's Cutting Board Oil. This is a food-safe blend of coconut oil, beeswax, mineral oil and vitamin E, which I usually thicken with additonal beeswax to provide an extra layer of water resistance and add a lovely smooth sheen.
Furniture and Crafts: I use a range of different finishes for my furniture, crafts and custom work, which I can describe or discuss on an individual basis.
Furniture and Crafts: I use a range of different finishes for my furniture, crafts and custom work, which I can describe or discuss on an individual basis.
Caring for Wooden Kitchen Products
NEVER put these items in the dishwasher! Soaking, hot water, and scrubbing with excessive dish soap should generally be avoided.
For best results, hand wash gently with mild soap and lukewarm water, then towel dry.
Reconditioning
Weekly conditioning is the best way to keep your wooden items in top-notch condition, but you can often get away with monthly or even yearly care. The best way to determine if you need to recondition the wood is to run water over the surface - if the water beads and disperses, the finish is still doing its job. If the water begins to soak in, it's time to recondition the wood. With heavy use, you will find the wood needs reconditioning in 3-6 months. With light use, it might take years. But it never hurts to apply oil or wax as a preventative measure on a weekly basis, whether or not the finish shows signs of wear.
Reconditioning can be as simple as applying a coat of conditioner onto the wood when it is clean and dry, then wiping it off. Or, if you want to put some elbow grease into the process for a more lasting result, you can turn it into a multi-day project.
Recommended: Wax-Based Cutting Board Oil or Paste
I keep Walrus Oil's Cutting Board Oil next to my kitchen sink for regular reconditioning, but there are a lot of other great products out there. Look for a food-safe blend of waxes and oils. The most important part is the wax, which will last longer than pure mineral oil or other non-drying oils. Apply it when the wood is clean and dry, wipe it off, and it's ready to go! The simplicity of this application makes it easy to do on a weekly or monthly basis, whether or not the wood is showing wear.
Most Durable: Pure Tung or Linseed Oil
Tung oil and linseed oil are all-natural and food-safe oils that harden, creating a more durable finish than other natural oils or wax. I highly recommend these oils after years of heavy use, if the wood appears extremely dry, or if you decide to sand out deep scratches and gouges. However, these finishes are flammable and have a distinct odor, so I only suggest them to people who are comfortable with small DIY projects. They also usually require at least a day of preparation and drying, so it's best to be prepared and read the instructions on the bottle. Most importantly, you MUST do your research on the product you choose: many companies blend these oils with other products, and not all of them are food safe. I use Real Milk Paint's Half and Half as the base finish for all kitchen tools and baby toys - this product is made of pure tung oil cut with citrus extract to expedite the drying process, and it creates an extremely long-lasting and durable finish.
Cheapest and Easiest: Food-Safe Mineral Oil
Food-safe mineral oil is the cheapest and easiest option for reconditioning oiled wood, but it is also the shortest lived. You can find it at your local pharmacy or kitchen supply store, and application is as simple as wiping it on and drying it off. Don't bother paying high prices for mineral oil branded as Cutting Board Oil: unless there is wax blended in, it's the same stuff that you'll get at CVS.
In a Pinch: Household Kitchen Oils
For items used daily, you can get away with reconditioning simply by applying any plant-based cooking oil found in your kitchen. Olive oil is commonly used to condition wooden kitchen implements. Be aware, though, that most of these oils (including olive oil) are known to go rancid. Because of this, I do not suggest cooking oil for items that might sit untouched and unwashed for long periods of time.
Questions?
Feel free to contact me with specific questions about the finishing process and care of wood!
For best results, hand wash gently with mild soap and lukewarm water, then towel dry.
Reconditioning
Weekly conditioning is the best way to keep your wooden items in top-notch condition, but you can often get away with monthly or even yearly care. The best way to determine if you need to recondition the wood is to run water over the surface - if the water beads and disperses, the finish is still doing its job. If the water begins to soak in, it's time to recondition the wood. With heavy use, you will find the wood needs reconditioning in 3-6 months. With light use, it might take years. But it never hurts to apply oil or wax as a preventative measure on a weekly basis, whether or not the finish shows signs of wear.
Reconditioning can be as simple as applying a coat of conditioner onto the wood when it is clean and dry, then wiping it off. Or, if you want to put some elbow grease into the process for a more lasting result, you can turn it into a multi-day project.
Recommended: Wax-Based Cutting Board Oil or Paste
I keep Walrus Oil's Cutting Board Oil next to my kitchen sink for regular reconditioning, but there are a lot of other great products out there. Look for a food-safe blend of waxes and oils. The most important part is the wax, which will last longer than pure mineral oil or other non-drying oils. Apply it when the wood is clean and dry, wipe it off, and it's ready to go! The simplicity of this application makes it easy to do on a weekly or monthly basis, whether or not the wood is showing wear.
Most Durable: Pure Tung or Linseed Oil
Tung oil and linseed oil are all-natural and food-safe oils that harden, creating a more durable finish than other natural oils or wax. I highly recommend these oils after years of heavy use, if the wood appears extremely dry, or if you decide to sand out deep scratches and gouges. However, these finishes are flammable and have a distinct odor, so I only suggest them to people who are comfortable with small DIY projects. They also usually require at least a day of preparation and drying, so it's best to be prepared and read the instructions on the bottle. Most importantly, you MUST do your research on the product you choose: many companies blend these oils with other products, and not all of them are food safe. I use Real Milk Paint's Half and Half as the base finish for all kitchen tools and baby toys - this product is made of pure tung oil cut with citrus extract to expedite the drying process, and it creates an extremely long-lasting and durable finish.
Cheapest and Easiest: Food-Safe Mineral Oil
Food-safe mineral oil is the cheapest and easiest option for reconditioning oiled wood, but it is also the shortest lived. You can find it at your local pharmacy or kitchen supply store, and application is as simple as wiping it on and drying it off. Don't bother paying high prices for mineral oil branded as Cutting Board Oil: unless there is wax blended in, it's the same stuff that you'll get at CVS.
In a Pinch: Household Kitchen Oils
For items used daily, you can get away with reconditioning simply by applying any plant-based cooking oil found in your kitchen. Olive oil is commonly used to condition wooden kitchen implements. Be aware, though, that most of these oils (including olive oil) are known to go rancid. Because of this, I do not suggest cooking oil for items that might sit untouched and unwashed for long periods of time.
Questions?
Feel free to contact me with specific questions about the finishing process and care of wood!