The Finishing Process
Kitchen & Baby Products: I use the same finishing process for spoons and cutting boards as I do for rattles and anything that might go in a child's mouth. The process begins with sanding and raising the grain with water until the desired smoothness is reached. I then apply 1-3 coats of The Real Milk Paint's Half and Half. This is an all-natural and food-safe blend of Tung Oil and Citrus extracts, which makes a beautiful, durable and water repellent finish. Before delivering my products, I lightly sand with a high-grit sandpaper and apply a final conditioning coat of Walrus Oil's Cutting Board Oil. This is a food-safe blend of coconut oil, beeswax, mineral oil and vitamin E, which I usually thicken with additonal beeswax to provide an extra layer of water resistance and add a lovely smooth sheen.
Furniture and Crafts: I use a range of different finishes for my furniture, crafts and custom work, which I can describe or discuss on an individual basis.
Furniture and Crafts: I use a range of different finishes for my furniture, crafts and custom work, which I can describe or discuss on an individual basis.
Caring for Wooden Kitchen Products
NEVER put these items in the dishwasher! Soaking, hot water, and scrubbing with excessive dish soap should generally be avoided.
For best results, hand wash gently with mild soap and lukewarm water, then towel dry.
Reconditioning
When the wood appears dry, that means it's time to recondition it with a waterproofing finish. With heavy use, you might find the wood needs reconditioning in 3-6 months. With light use, it might take years. The best way to determine if you need to recondition the wood is to run water over the surface - if the water beads and disperses, the finish is still doing its job. If the water begins to soak in, it's time to recondition the wood.
Reconditioning is usually as simple as applying a coat of wood conditioner and wiping it dry, then getting back to work. Or, if you want to put some elbow grease into the process for a more lasting result, sanding and refinishing can become a multi-day process.
Recommended: Wax-Based Cutting Board Oil or Paste
I use Walrus Oil's Cutting Board Oil, but there are a lot of other great products out there. Look for a food-safe blend of waxes and oils. The most important part is the wax, which will last much longer than pure mineral oil or other non-drying oils. Simply apply with a rag, wipe dry, and it's ready to go!
Most Durable: Pure Tung or Linseed Oil
Tung oil and linseed oil are all-natural oils that harden, creating a more durable finish than other oils or even just wax. I highly recommend these oils if the wood appears extremely dry, or if you decide to sand out deep scratches and gouges. However, these finishes are flammable and have a distinct odor, so I only suggest them to people who already have a good space for small DIY projects. They also usually require at least a day of preparation and drying, so it's best to be prepared and read the instructions on the bottle. Most importantly, you MUST do your research on the product you choose - many companies blend these oils with other products, and not all of them are food safe. I use Real Milk Paint's Half and Half as my base finish for all kitchen tools and baby toys - this product is made of pure tung oil cut with citrus extract to expedite the drying process.
Cheapest and Easiest: Food-Safe Mineral Oil
Food-safe mineral oil is the cheapest, easiest option for reconditioning oiled wood, but it is also the shortest lived. You can find it at your local pharmacy or kitchen supply store, and application is as simple as wiping it on and drying it off. Don't bother paying high prices for mineral oil branded as Cutting Board Oil: unless there is wax blended in, it's the same stuff that you'll get at CVS.
Special Case: Household Kitchen Oils
For items used daily, you can get away with reconditioning simply by applying any plant-based cooking oil found in your kitchen, then quickly rinsing and drying. Olive oil is commonly used to condition wooden kitchen implements. Be aware, though, that most of these oils (including olive oil) are known to go rancid. Because of this, cooking oil is not suggested for items that might sit untouched and unwashed for long periods of time.
Questions?
Feel free to contact me with specific questions about the finishing process and care of wood!
For best results, hand wash gently with mild soap and lukewarm water, then towel dry.
Reconditioning
When the wood appears dry, that means it's time to recondition it with a waterproofing finish. With heavy use, you might find the wood needs reconditioning in 3-6 months. With light use, it might take years. The best way to determine if you need to recondition the wood is to run water over the surface - if the water beads and disperses, the finish is still doing its job. If the water begins to soak in, it's time to recondition the wood.
Reconditioning is usually as simple as applying a coat of wood conditioner and wiping it dry, then getting back to work. Or, if you want to put some elbow grease into the process for a more lasting result, sanding and refinishing can become a multi-day process.
Recommended: Wax-Based Cutting Board Oil or Paste
I use Walrus Oil's Cutting Board Oil, but there are a lot of other great products out there. Look for a food-safe blend of waxes and oils. The most important part is the wax, which will last much longer than pure mineral oil or other non-drying oils. Simply apply with a rag, wipe dry, and it's ready to go!
Most Durable: Pure Tung or Linseed Oil
Tung oil and linseed oil are all-natural oils that harden, creating a more durable finish than other oils or even just wax. I highly recommend these oils if the wood appears extremely dry, or if you decide to sand out deep scratches and gouges. However, these finishes are flammable and have a distinct odor, so I only suggest them to people who already have a good space for small DIY projects. They also usually require at least a day of preparation and drying, so it's best to be prepared and read the instructions on the bottle. Most importantly, you MUST do your research on the product you choose - many companies blend these oils with other products, and not all of them are food safe. I use Real Milk Paint's Half and Half as my base finish for all kitchen tools and baby toys - this product is made of pure tung oil cut with citrus extract to expedite the drying process.
Cheapest and Easiest: Food-Safe Mineral Oil
Food-safe mineral oil is the cheapest, easiest option for reconditioning oiled wood, but it is also the shortest lived. You can find it at your local pharmacy or kitchen supply store, and application is as simple as wiping it on and drying it off. Don't bother paying high prices for mineral oil branded as Cutting Board Oil: unless there is wax blended in, it's the same stuff that you'll get at CVS.
Special Case: Household Kitchen Oils
For items used daily, you can get away with reconditioning simply by applying any plant-based cooking oil found in your kitchen, then quickly rinsing and drying. Olive oil is commonly used to condition wooden kitchen implements. Be aware, though, that most of these oils (including olive oil) are known to go rancid. Because of this, cooking oil is not suggested for items that might sit untouched and unwashed for long periods of time.
Questions?
Feel free to contact me with specific questions about the finishing process and care of wood!