The Finishing Process
Kitchen Products: My final step on all kitchen products is a multi-day process of sanding, raising the grain, and applying a food-safe finish. I start with tung oil and citrus, which creates a durable, all-natural and food-safe coating. After letting it dry for at least a week, I finely sand the hardened finish and add a coat of beeswax and mineral oil for an extra layer of protection and a lovely smooth sheen.
Although Tung oil is pressed from the seed of the Tung tree, it is not known to be associated with common nut allergies. Unlike most other natural oils, it becomes a hard film and will not go rancid over time. However, it can sometimes take over a week to completely harden, depending on the temperature and humidity. Because of this, there may be a lingering musty smell when an item is initially purchased, but after a gentle wash and a few uses the smell should totally go away. Upon request, I can skip the Tung Oil and only use the beeswax and mineral oil finish (this is a less durable option, but more commonly used because it is less expensive and generally simpler).
Furniture and Crafts: I use a range of different finishes for my furniture, crafts and custom work. Sometimes a project does best with polyurethane, spar varnish or a thick layer of epoxy, and other times times the natural oiled or waxed finish is more appropriate. The finish I use depends on the style of the piece, the way it will be used, or your own personal preferences (if it's a custom request). I am happy to discuss these options (and more) on an individual basis.
Although Tung oil is pressed from the seed of the Tung tree, it is not known to be associated with common nut allergies. Unlike most other natural oils, it becomes a hard film and will not go rancid over time. However, it can sometimes take over a week to completely harden, depending on the temperature and humidity. Because of this, there may be a lingering musty smell when an item is initially purchased, but after a gentle wash and a few uses the smell should totally go away. Upon request, I can skip the Tung Oil and only use the beeswax and mineral oil finish (this is a less durable option, but more commonly used because it is less expensive and generally simpler).
Furniture and Crafts: I use a range of different finishes for my furniture, crafts and custom work. Sometimes a project does best with polyurethane, spar varnish or a thick layer of epoxy, and other times times the natural oiled or waxed finish is more appropriate. The finish I use depends on the style of the piece, the way it will be used, or your own personal preferences (if it's a custom request). I am happy to discuss these options (and more) on an individual basis.
Caring for Wooden Kitchen Products
NEVER put these items in the dishwasher! Soaking, hot water, and scrubbing with excessive dish soap should generally be avoided.
For best results, hand wash gently with mild soap and lukewarm water, then towel dry.
Reconditioning
Weekly conditioning is the best way to keep your wooden items in top-notch condition, but you can often get away with monthly or even yearly care. The best way to determine if you need to recondition the wood is to run water over the surface - if the water beads and disperses, the finish is still doing its job. If the water begins to soak in, it's time to recondition the wood. With heavy use, you will find the wood needs reconditioning in 3-6 months. With light use, it might take years. But it never hurts to apply oil or wax as a preventative measure on a weekly basis, whether or not the finish shows signs of wear.
Reconditioning can be as simple as applying a coat of conditioner onto the wood when it is clean and dry, then wiping it off. Or, if you want to put some elbow grease into the process for a more lasting result, you can turn it into a multi-day project of sanding and refinishing.
Recommended: Wax-Based Cutting Board Oil or Paste
The simplicity of this application makes it easy to do on a weekly or monthly basis, whether or not the wood is showing wear. Every product will have slightly different directons - but most will be a wipe-on, wipe-off application. Look for a food-safe blend of waxes and oils. The most important part is the wax, which will last longer than pure mineral oil or other non-drying oils. Apply it when the wood is clean and dry, wipe it off, and it's ready to go! I make my own mix of beeswax and mineral oil, which you can purchase here.
Most Durable: Natural Drying Oils
Drying oils, such as tung or linseed oil, are all-natural and food-safe oils that harden, creating a more durable finish than other natural oils or wax. I highly recommend applying tung oil after years of heavy use, if the wood appears extremely dry, or if you decide to sand out deep scratches and gouges. However these finishes are flammable when wet, and they have a distinct odor, so I only suggest them to people who are comfortable with small DIY projects. They also usually require at least a day of preparation and drying, so it's best to be prepared and read the instructions on the bottle. Most importantly, you MUST do your research on the product you choose: many companies blend these oils with solvents, mose of which are not food safe. I recommend Real Milk Paint's Half and Half - this product is made of pure tung oil cut with citrus extract to expedite the drying process, and it creates an extremely long-lasting and durable finish.
Cheapest and Easiest: Food-Safe Mineral Oil
Food-safe mineral oil is the cheapest and easiest option for reconditioning oiled wood, but it is also the shortest lived. You can find it at your local pharmacy or kitchen supply store, and application is as simple as wiping it on and drying it off. Don't bother paying high prices for mineral oil branded as Cutting Board Oil, unless there is wax blended in.
In a Pinch: Household Kitchen Oils
For items used daily, you can get away with reconditioning simply by applying any plant-based cooking oil found in your kitchen. Olive oil is commonly used to condition wooden kitchen implements. Be aware, though, that most of these oils (including olive oil) are known to go rancid. Because of this, I do not suggest cooking oil for items that might sit untouched and unwashed for long periods of time.
Questions?
Feel free to contact me with specific questions about the finishing process and care of wood!
For best results, hand wash gently with mild soap and lukewarm water, then towel dry.
Reconditioning
Weekly conditioning is the best way to keep your wooden items in top-notch condition, but you can often get away with monthly or even yearly care. The best way to determine if you need to recondition the wood is to run water over the surface - if the water beads and disperses, the finish is still doing its job. If the water begins to soak in, it's time to recondition the wood. With heavy use, you will find the wood needs reconditioning in 3-6 months. With light use, it might take years. But it never hurts to apply oil or wax as a preventative measure on a weekly basis, whether or not the finish shows signs of wear.
Reconditioning can be as simple as applying a coat of conditioner onto the wood when it is clean and dry, then wiping it off. Or, if you want to put some elbow grease into the process for a more lasting result, you can turn it into a multi-day project of sanding and refinishing.
Recommended: Wax-Based Cutting Board Oil or Paste
The simplicity of this application makes it easy to do on a weekly or monthly basis, whether or not the wood is showing wear. Every product will have slightly different directons - but most will be a wipe-on, wipe-off application. Look for a food-safe blend of waxes and oils. The most important part is the wax, which will last longer than pure mineral oil or other non-drying oils. Apply it when the wood is clean and dry, wipe it off, and it's ready to go! I make my own mix of beeswax and mineral oil, which you can purchase here.
Most Durable: Natural Drying Oils
Drying oils, such as tung or linseed oil, are all-natural and food-safe oils that harden, creating a more durable finish than other natural oils or wax. I highly recommend applying tung oil after years of heavy use, if the wood appears extremely dry, or if you decide to sand out deep scratches and gouges. However these finishes are flammable when wet, and they have a distinct odor, so I only suggest them to people who are comfortable with small DIY projects. They also usually require at least a day of preparation and drying, so it's best to be prepared and read the instructions on the bottle. Most importantly, you MUST do your research on the product you choose: many companies blend these oils with solvents, mose of which are not food safe. I recommend Real Milk Paint's Half and Half - this product is made of pure tung oil cut with citrus extract to expedite the drying process, and it creates an extremely long-lasting and durable finish.
Cheapest and Easiest: Food-Safe Mineral Oil
Food-safe mineral oil is the cheapest and easiest option for reconditioning oiled wood, but it is also the shortest lived. You can find it at your local pharmacy or kitchen supply store, and application is as simple as wiping it on and drying it off. Don't bother paying high prices for mineral oil branded as Cutting Board Oil, unless there is wax blended in.
In a Pinch: Household Kitchen Oils
For items used daily, you can get away with reconditioning simply by applying any plant-based cooking oil found in your kitchen. Olive oil is commonly used to condition wooden kitchen implements. Be aware, though, that most of these oils (including olive oil) are known to go rancid. Because of this, I do not suggest cooking oil for items that might sit untouched and unwashed for long periods of time.
Questions?
Feel free to contact me with specific questions about the finishing process and care of wood!
